Back in snowy St. Anton - definitive last post on this blog!

Been home for 3 days. Had a cosy and relaxed Christmas here at home. Old friends and family around - nice to be back to my "normal" world again. And everything is getting intensified by having explored a new part of the world - and myself - by another long bike ride. I am very thankful to everybody that has been part of this experience. You helped me getting out of my comfort zone and seeing the world in a new light.. We have a famous danish author: Hans Christian Andersen. He said: "To travel is to live" - I agree! And "I will be back" - on another tour - hopefully not before too long. Here in St. Anton where I live it's pouring down snow since yesterday - and it will continue for a while according to the weather report. I already went skiing a couple of times. My legs are pleasantly strong - but not tuned for skiing yet - it will come - hopefully. My touring push bike - as it is called in Australia - is still in the box. My race bike is on the balcony - in the far corner where the snow does not get in. I see it from where I sit now - I am so happy to have cycling as part of my life!

Wunschlos zufrieden = happy, happy, happy!

Yes - I did it - we arrived in Sydney early afternoon!
 Took 2 ferries, the last going to Circular Quay very close to the Opera House where we all met to have the group photo taken. Came in in time to get some sparkling wine to celebrate before..
 9.300 k's in Indonesia and Australia - and EFI Australia!
 After Canberra we had 3 riding days all holding quite some climbing. But I do not care. No, actually I like it. I have never been stronger on my bike - and don't know if I will ever get there again. But it IS nice..
 We spent one night more in a bush camp - last night in the tent (on this trip) and stayed in a wonderful sea view cabin at Bulli beach yesterday - thanks to Catherine and Hans that left the tour and gave their place to me for free..
Went in the ocean - HUGE waves - very refreshing.
 Now at a very nice room at the Sydney Boulevard hotel where we also have the big finishing celebration tonight..

Super fun riding up the Great Alpine Road to Canberra..

The fun continued: 1870 meters of climb over a distance of 123 k's going from Yarram to Delegate - another small sleepy town - again in the middle of nowhere - but with a quite nice campground next to a small river. The riding was enjoyable going up in fantastic weather. Blue, blue skies and all vegetation green as ever. The summer has just begin (like June back home) - so everything seems very fresh. The ferns are unbelievable big and beautiful - some of them like trees.. Had many k's through a forest on a gravel road - something that many people do not like - but one of my favorite things. I still (after the many k's - or especially because of it = being strong) really prefer some challenge on my bike instead of just going straight. Not that I am the fastest or anything - but it just never becomes boring. Saw a kangaroo and a small black snake just lying before me on the road - a bit scary.
 I think I never got to tell you about all the fantastic birds we have here. Not being particularly fond of birds it never becomes an obsession of mine - but I must say: the birds are plentiful, colorful, often quite big and are singing like mad. And an exotic bird like the kakadoo we see nearly every day.
 My venture in Delegate back to tenting wasn't a big success: could not fall asleep and woke up 2 hours before the alarm went at five - so had max. 4 hours of sleep which is too little. But I decided to do it again the day after as I was overtired. That helped. I actually had a good sleep in my tent!
 Delegate to Cooma also was a terrific ride - again a good deal of climbing (1700 something over a distance of 130 something). Looong rolling hills with gorgeous views of an amazing landscape. We went up to just under 1000 meters at the highest - being close to famous ski resort like Mount Bulla, Thredbo and Parashees (probably wrong spelling). Again we saw kangaroos - first 7 of them in different sizes just before us traversing the road and after 5 jumping parallel to us may be 100 meters away. Fascinating to see them move ahead using their back legs and tail making huge jumps.
 We arrived in Canberra yesterday - Australia's capital designed some 100 years ago by an american architect. Not the most charming place on earth - but very straight, clean and green lying around the artificial lake of Burley Griffin (named after the architect). Just sitting at The National Gallery's coffeehouse after having visited the collection of aboriginal art. I get to like this more and more. Also because it tells about their original way of thinking and living.

Hostage taking in Sydney 

The big shock yesterday was the hostage taking at the Lindt Cafe in Sydney. I have been following it on the television (have a cabin) - and first thing this morning I heard that 3 people were killed including the islamist behind it. Really weird being this close to such a terrible incident..

Here comes the sun - six riding days before Sydney..

YES - finally the weather got better! Going up north towards Canberra - we have our first riding day of a bloc of 4 going there - and the sun came out. What a difference. Also going up the Great Alpine Road and the outlook of passing by some ski towns/resorts of course can excite me a bit! Had a great only 88 k's ride today - with some very nice climbing = 900 vertical. Felt well on my bike and tried to go fast (!) all the way - enjoyable! And I will tent first time since long again.. A perfect lawn with some beautiful trees to give shade (not that we need it). Put my tent so it naturally goes a bit down - of course with my head up. Waugh what a tent expert I am becoming (ha, ha..).
 Not much else to tell - ok, yes - only 6 more days to go to Sydney - AND I AM NOT GETTING NOSTALGIC - look SO much forward to go back home..
 But am seriously considering to do South America next year! 5 months, 15.000 k's - Columbia, Equador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentine and Chile. Have not made up my mind 100 pro cent yet - but very tempted!

Low before climax..

Some people stayed in Melbourne - one went to Tasmania. Other decided to quit today.. There is some kind of a low in the group just now. And I agree.. The riding is like in Denmark: cold, flat and quite some traffic. The bad weather tends not to leave us.. And I am kind of regrettable about the fact of not having really explored Melbourne with just one day there.. So think I could have spent my time here in Australia better than doing what we are doing just now.. But I try to convince myself that it is cool to accomplish the Australia section EFI and just take it all, good and bad.  Thank you Jacqueline for helping me to believe in that! And now that we have less than 10 out of a total of around 90 riding days left I stay tuned.. Did 100 k's today with quite some k's at a nice cycling path where there used to be a railroad track. Now we are in the town of Yarram - a boring provincial town with a beautiful brand new library with free wi-fi.. There is nothing else exciting to do here.. But we will soon be in Canberra - and Sydney - of course.. Am kind of ready for "the grand finishing" of the tour - and look forward to go back home to Christmas in St. Anton!
 Am not inspired to take photos - it all looks more or less like something seen before..

Wet, wet, wet - also at the founder of Lonely Planet's place.

I thought that it was my turn to take some kind of initiative in the group - so organized transportation for 12 people to go to the party that we were all invited to at Toni Wheeler's (the founder of Lonely Planet) place. Nice evening. He is a very friendly and humble man that together with his wife, Maureen has changed the way most of us travel. His house is a globetrotter's home with a special modern oriental atmosphere - like a Jim Thomson's house of our time.. Beautiful art and artefacts - grand living room with a spacy terrace - perfect for a party for 50 people.. The house has a beautiful garden with a large swimming pool and goes down to a little river - you see no other houses from there - just beautiful nature.. We had a great bbq all freshly prepared by a chef followed by a wonderful cake assortment - some of the best so far in Australia (eat cakes everyday - and can say that they are generally very good here..). AND a lot of wine. Actually too much wine.. But when the company is good - you know.. Also met a little group of former and present Lonely Planet employees that did participate in Tour d'Afrique together with Toni Wheler in 2009.
 This morning I was a bit hung over - and it was pouring down rain. We followed riding paths all through Melbourne going to the southeast of it to Philip island where we are now. It was great (but wet and cold!!) to ride through the city - especially along the Yarra river and the harbor area with lots of new residential buildings and quite some sailing yacht ports. And following cycling paths at the other side of the city along the ocean gave us a good impression of how some of the well off Melbourne people live. Big houses built very close to each other along the water front. It was Sunday and a lot of people were out in the rain running (among others a women's run with around 1000 participants), cycling and meeting for other sports.
 Hurried to catch a ferry before 12 to go to the island. It was kind of unpleasant in the rain and headwind - but no other choice.. So was a bit worn out when I reached it just in time. Total anticlimax: the ferry was cancelled because of heavy winds and we were redirected going by train and bus + waiting for a couple of hours in between to go to a bridge going to the other side of the island where we did not arrive to camp before 6 pm. Had to go to another campsite to get a cabin - and had no time to shower before dinner. It all ended fine as Janice that we know from the Bamboo last year came with (more) red wine - yes it is a bit over the top - now I had wine everyday since a week - seriously over the top!

Melbourne - here we come.. Total k's on the cycle: approx. 7.800!

Tda shortened our ride from Torquay to Melbourne yesterday - so arrived around noon after a 106 k's ride. Kind of a boring cycling day going through the industrial quarter of the city of Geelong, along the Port Phillip Bay and being on a bicycle path for many kilometers - but actually also interesting to see something different - and more "normal".. We are at an upscale caravan park 35 min.'s bus ride from down town Melbourne. Went in there yesterday. Just followed the Lonely Planet recommendation for a city walk and had lunch and dinner at places mentioned in there. Just great. The most fantastic tapas I ever tried for lunch and a vibrant Friday evening atmosphere at a bohemian place with modern Australian cuisine.
 Now at my cabin - kind of tired - but heading out to visit one of the central suburb areas: Fitzroy where Melbourne should be at it's hottest just at the moment.. Am a bit desperate to have so little time (leaving tomorrow morning) at this attractive place - can only do a fraction of what I would love to do here.. Ok, I will be off..
 Just want to inform you that my total k's on this trip is now around 7.800! If I continue doing EFI in Australia I will end up with a final total around 9.000.
 REALLY HOPE THAT NOTHING WILL COME BETWEEN

Surfers Paradise - in rainy - and sunny weather..

Rest day in Apollo Bay yesterday. Known for it's fantastic beaches. Unfortunately it rained and was kind of cold all day. Cancelled the lobster that Gerald had organized on the beach - no point in bad weather. Had some good meals, did read quite something and was happy that I had taken a nice room with good internet connection!
 Woke up to light rains and humidity this morning - did not envy all the people on the campground - pretty low spirits at breakfast. But never give up! I went off on my own today - Jacqueline left early with Matthew and Hanns had a flat - so I decided to enjoy the morning on my own. And what a morning.. The clouds evaporated and the beautiful coast line (still Great Ocean Road) revealed itself in all it's splendor.. Another great stretch mostly just next to the ocean but also following the landscape going up and down a bit like rolling hills. Great panoramic views - and the clear and clean air that you only get after a rainfall. I was considering how to describe the day when I still sat on my bike and again got low on new superlatives to tell you exactly how beautiful is was.. After about 44 k's we reached the town of Lorne - another charming beach town with a lot of big and beautiful summer homes. A bit like south of France, north of Italy - or California.. Visited a bakery for croissant and cappuccino - just wonderful to sit there and see the ocean glittering in the sun..
 Arrived at Torquai before 11 pm - and enjoyed just sitting at the camp chatting with Dara. After getting my cabin and having a shower I went with Jacqueline for a very nice lunch: snapper with couscous and caramel slice with some Riesling - life could be worse. We are at the surf capital of Australia where Rip Curl and Quicksilver were founded - so had to go there and get some stuff. By the way bought a pair of Emu boots yesterday - just like Uggs - just nicer.. Wear them with shorts - just perfect! It's Eric's 45 years birthday today so there will be a party at Gerald's cabin tonight..

Totally Great Ocean Road!

Finally we reached it: The Great Ocean Road. A fantastic stretch of beach road going up from Port Fairy towards Melbourne. Again the scenery of Australia surprises and amazes - completely different from what we have seen until now - but again just beautiful! Not just the fantastic rock formations in the water that the 12 Apostles and some others are - also the general coastline: a rough sea that has caused many shipwrecks through the centuries and a wonderful landscape going down towards it.

We have gone through national parks where wildlife and vegetation are taken care of and where the presentation and infrastructure to get you there is just perfectly organized.
 I met an english lady at The 12 Apostles at 7 this morning. She was standing with her camera mounted on a three-foot, ready to take pictures. She told that she travelled all the way from England to get this picture - and was not perfectly happy about her 2nd day of overcast here. Actually the cloudy sky matched the dramatic rocks well - I think!

Our 2 days of 90 something riding distances has been nice. When the day can be done in less than 6 hours with quite some stops for sightseeing, lunch and coffee it is easy! Today we had the longest climb in Australia: 1500 meters. But although it went on for quite a while it was gentle and fine. We had fog and drizzle rain at "the top", but went to another of the typical local coffeehouses where everything is homemade and the coffee good. It was cold to get back on the bike going down for quite a while. I am just happy to have brought my thin duvet jacket that packs to nothing and warms wonderfully under my rain jacket. Now at Apollo Bay where we have another rest day (what an easy life) tomorrow..

Tough going towards Melbourne - still EFI Australia..

Now at a charming beach side resort: Port Fairy - reminds me of Skagen or other nice beach holiday towns: very neat and tidy and a normal population of 2.500 that grows to 10.000 when the summer season is at it's highest.. Beautiful beach and quite some surfers out although the summer just officially starts here in Australia tomorrow on the 1st of December.
 Had some tough riding days since last and got my first kind of real low (dizzy and no energy) here on the bike yesterday when there was only 15 kilometers left of the 133 k's day'

Me, Jacquline and Cathrine - from left.. Charles and Dina to the right. Taken by Hanns (Cathrine's husband) yesterday.

s distance. I think it was my blood sugar that went down after too little coke and energy drink. I tend to forget to drink this stuff now that it is kind of cold during most of the day. Anyway I ate an energy bar and got to camp on my bike (would hate to give up my EFI that I still hold in Australia)..
 We just finished 5 riding days with altogether 651 k's of strong headwind almost every fucking inch of it! It IS extremely exhausting! But I enjoy riding especially with Catherine and Jacqueline - a strong girls group that just keeps on struggling with lips totally burned off by the wind and eyes running most the time.
 I had a fantastic massage this morning and pampered myself with a facial afterwards - well deserved - I think..
 Tomorrow the Great Ocean Road will start for us. We have a bloc of 2 riding days - 91+96 k's - and we will arrive at Apollo Bay just another 2 days from Melbourne. In Melbourne some of us will meet Janice Simpson, a rider from the Bamboo last year that lives there. One of the evenings there we are all invited to a party that the founder of "Lonely Planet", Tony Wheeler, is throwing for us at his private house. He is a friend of Henry Gold.

Tenting, freezing, having headwind - but I still love it!

Had a day just being relaxed in Adelaide. Enjoyed my nice room, had some great meals, went to the hairdresser and had a pedicure. But most important was the purchase of my third camping mattress, an eiderdown sleeping bag, a small camel bag and 4 compartmentalizing bags.. I want (and need) all these things now - but will also be set for another long distance tenting bicycle trip having this equipment. Yes, in Indonesia I was considering that this might be my last trip - but this have changed. With good health and strong legs I fully enjoy visiting a new continent on my bike. I must admit that I am hungry for more of this.. Of course Australia is the changing point here. I just adore being here. And of course South America and/or Africa will be completely different - but still including some of the things that I love so much about traveling this way.. Anyway the mattress works perfectly (the 3rd time is the time of luck) and my new sleeping bag is a total hit for me. And I overview all my possessions in my duffel bag better than ever with my new nice bags that help me a lot keeping things organized. So far so good. I DID camp for 2 days in a row - and enjoyed it - especially the first night..
The whole group is in kind of chock because of the sudden cold we are experiencing here. It is down to 8 degrees during the nights. And not much warmer when we start riding at 6.30 in the morning.. There is a lot of dew so the tents are all wet when we pack them in our bags. Not a very pleasing start of the day. Freeze for the first hour or so on the bike and cannot really take more clothes on as I do not have any more. Expect it to get warmer as we are going north (closer to equator) - but when will this happen? Today I was still cold after a short days (approx. 90 k's) ride. The camp is just next to the ocean - super beautiful - but totally cold as there is a strong cold wind coming in from out there. So I decided that not even my new wonderful sleeping bag will be enough to keep me warm. So took a cabin again - with heating!! Could not imagine this just a bit over a week ago when we were still sweating at the Stewart Highway..
 Riding has been really nice after Adelaide. Did 2 days around 150 k's - the one starting with a pretty steep climb followed by a gravel path that could not be cycled. So felt a bit like the one day back in Indonesia where I got really angry about the walking up a very steep path. But this one was a lot shorter - and ended up in a beautiful area lying high up over the city and bay - with trees to the side of the road - and some open sections - where all of a sudden a kangaroo was standing following us turning his head to see. They seem so human these animals with their stirring eyes and their upright position - and super cute! But they can be dangerous - grabbing you with it's arms and scratching you - so no going to close.. Saw a whole field of kangaroos today - overwhelming!
 We have had some long and lonesome stretches here also - and some really bad headwind - but we are getting hardcore - and just keep on going! All of a sudden things soften up - like this morning where we left the route for a couple of kilometers and reached to a town with the most wonderful little coffeeshop nicely decorated and offering freshly squeezed juices, the best coffee and home baked cakes. This is just typical Australia - wilderness and perfection - all mixed up - I love it!

Is this reality or a dream?

Had a couple of relaxed rest days in Port Augusta - and was again full of energy to continue our trip. This time the bloc was of only 3 riding days of approx. 125 k's each. And what a bliss! Left the coast and went up in the back land towards the Flinders Ranges - a gentle chain of mountains to the northeast of Port Augusta. A wonderful morning's ride through a great landscape with an altogether 1025 pleasant meter's climb up to some vast and rolling fields of wheat. 

And some very charming minor towns dating back from the 19th century. We had lunch outside a combined cycle and coffee shop - just felt super welcome there!

Came to camp - no cabin available. Was ready to tent as the nice lady from the office there came out and told that they had a cancellation - I could not resist - and again I ended up in a nice cabin. Had a wonderful sleep. And woke up all rested to one of the most pleasant riding days of our whole trip. Again a perfectly gentle climb - maybe everything seems gentle after Indonesia?? Anyway it was just fun to go up as quickly as possible in as high a gear as possible without getting really exhausted.. After a soft descent I saw that a rider before us had stopped: there were 2 kangaroos just to the right of the road - the one had "something" in her pocket.. A pure Australia MOMENT!

Of course the wind was from behind - and we flew through the landscape on a partly unpaved road that at least had solid gravel instead until arriving at the the totally picturesque town of Auburn. It had the complete laid back Saturday morning atmosphere - and we went into one of the charming small cafes along the road. Guess what our next trail was called: The Riesling Trail. A nice bicycling path through the wine country (Claire Valley) covering almost all the way to our next campsite at the town of Riverton. Of course the day ended with us drinking the region's really fantastic Riesling both normal and sparkling.. The best birthday since long!
 Now we are in Adelaide - arrived after another fantastic riding day yesterday. Around 1500 meter's wonderful climb - ending by taking us down through a beautiful gorge - the scenery here is just STUNNING!

 Left the group to go to a nice hotel downtown yesterday - enjoyed 6 oysters and some Riesling just after arriving - and went for a fantastic burger and a stroll through the charming streets last night. Great to be in a city - first since more than 3 months..
 I feel totally blessed!

Cooper Pedy to Port Augusta..

A day in Cooper Pedy

This town is all about opals - and it was like that for me as well.. The landscape that you see at the end of all streets there is deserted and like on the moon - except for signs of mining: piles of dug up material and mining machines. The main street holds a shop selling opals on every corner. So just perfect for finding what I looked for: an opal. Visited 6-8 different shops and found out that the owners had about as many nationalities. A real "wild west" town where treasure hunters from Greece, Albania, Ukraine and Croatia have found a living with these stones. I ended up buying an opal from a guy from Ukraine. It is a so-called black opal and found a couple of hundreds of km's south of Cooper Pedy.

My opal holds more colors in reality..

After having accomplished this mission I took a round on my bike to visit 3 under earth churches established in empty mines. Apparently the miners are quite religious.. 
 I also went for a kangaroo feeding session at a place where kangaroos rescued in traffic or elsewhere are taken care of. There were some 4-7 years old ones and a little just 5 months old baby girl. She was cute having milk from a bottle and could not really stand on her legs.

Dramatic change of weather 

We woke up to cloudy skies and a major temperature drop the following day. First time on the whole trip where it seemed kind of cold - weird.. Went off leading the peloton in full speed and was happy to have my light rain jacket in my bag on the back of the bike. Just at lunch it started dripping and continued into a solid rain coming with wind against us. My fingers lost all feeling and I was cold at arms and legs. A 125 k's day is long and there is time for the weather to change - several times. So we got dry again - and felt fine for once not sweating on the bike. As we arrived at our bush camp the wind caught up - just enough to make the setting up of a tent to somewhat of a challenge - to me at least. So just as I thought that I was all set the tent was taken by the wind and took it's own way over a fence into the bush area behind. I ran after it - but would have had little chance if it had not got caught by some trees maybe 50 meters away. I got it back, put my heavy bag inside - and felt kind of safe. Got ready for the night putting air into both of my mattresses - the old thick one that does not hold air more than 4 hours on the top and the new more compact one underneath. Was tired and wanted a little rest - but no chance - soo much noise from the wind "hammering" on the tent. Went for at beer at the rest area - and went back - more relaxed for a little rest. Passed out and just woke up 5 min. before riders meeting. Stumbled out of the tent and fell over one pole - and broke it. Was fed up and just left the tent as it was. When I looked at it next time with my dinner plate full - it was half lifted from the ground with the poole sticking through the cloth. No chance - just had to go back and get it fixed. With the help of our tour leader Andreas an emergency set up was established for the night. My tent had half it's normal (low) height - and there just was space for me and my things inside - all powdered in red dust! This was the end of my

tenting career - for this section at least. Had one more bush camp left after another 2 days ride and in stead of a 117 k's and a 62 k's day I decided to do the 179 k's ride to go straight to our Spencer Gulf destination Port Augusta.

The continent absolved - efi!

Toothbrush and a couple of other things packed in the bag at the back of my bike,  a hot soup poured down and I left the evening's camp at 2 pm together with Catherine from Vancouver. Her husband Hans is not a fan of bush camps either and actually left the group at Cooper Pedy to go straight to Port Augusta by bus. 

 We started out with a nice long descent, had a little stop at a rest area (brought my Coke+Mars) and ended up with 20 k's of strong headwinds. Arrived after 5 pm. Wonderful to see "real" water.  Got installed in a cabin - and drank the wonderful red wine Hans had ready for us! Something to celebrate: 2.750 k's done from ocean to ocean - the whole Australian continent - and EFI of it on my bike!

Longest day on my bike..

Another desert camp announced - 126 k's - all right. But in the middle of fucking nowhere - no shade but under a little roof - to trees - and just shit and paper from that.. It was hot, there was another 53 to go - but easy decision! Toothbrush and a couple of other things from my bag on the bike - and on we went to Marly's Roadhouse. Spent a great evening: swimming pool, shower, nap and the big grill plate followed by chocolate pie + ice-cream - not to forget reasonable amounts of red wine - wonderful. We had to officially sign out of the TDA trip to do this - but no big deal - just rejoined at lunch next day at 9.30 - and had a sleep in - not to forget!
 Short day yesterday - all ok - another camp night in my tent. And another "wake up" without sleep - do I ever lean it?? Super tough day today. Tired, headwind, up to 49,5 degrees heat - why do I do it? Was really "finito" at lunch - but my ambition to do EFI in Australia and the solid support from my peloton group (see South Australia picture on FB) made me continue.. And I did it: 157 k's where the riding after lunch actually was not as bad as I expected: tailwind and some nice descents going into one of Australia's most important opal mining towns: Coober Pedy. A burning hot desert town where even the churches are under ground as the heat just is unbearable. Opted for a wonderful room/suite that among other things holds it's own washing machine - can you beat that? I ENJOY the comfort big time - what a contrast to the tenting!
 Will go and buy an opal tomorrow - it's the stone of my star sign: scorpion - so I just have to have one!

Bush life south of Alice..

Started out with a long day (169 k's) yesterday. Well prepared after 3 rest days and a good sleep - full of energy.. Left camp already at 5.45 and headed south through Alice Springs. After 4 k's I looked down and realized that I had forgotten my big water bottle in the fridge of my cabin. Always bring 3 1/2 liters water with 2 smaller bottles on the back of the bike.
 Back again - loosing my peloton people - and meeting a locked gate going in to camp. Fortunately Henry, the sweeper of the day came shortly after. Got the bottle and was absolutely last out of camp. That made my day different than planned - but good. Stopped and had a chat with Henry, rode with Ursula and Rae that I catched up with until lunch and went together with Nellie for quite a while in the afternoon.
 The temperature was pleasant as it was partly overcast - actually it was only 17 degrees as we started out. And the wind was in my favor.        
 Came to our first bush camp around 3 pm and met much of the group sitting in the rest area protected from the sun drinking beer or soft drinks. Had a couple of cokes and the wonderful soup that Mark (he took over the job as cook after Jon left in Alice) makes for us to take every day after riding. Found a spot to put my tent (ants and burrs unavoidable) - and it blew away just after. I ran after it and had it fixed to the ground with my heavy bag inside. It is quite unpleasant to get in and out of my tent as it is very low. Also the whole logistics with daily and permanent bag is tough. Did a wrong movement the other day and kind of overstretched my groin. It still hurts when I do certain movements. Not 17 anymore..
 Well the highlight of the evening in the bush was Gerald's outdoors cinema. He showed "Mad Max" from the late 70's going on at the Stuart Highway. I look forward to other movies related to Australia that he will play when we are at bush camps. Had an ok sleep in the tent - it got cold and I went into my sleeping bag first time on the tour - cosy!
 The 108 k's ride today was tough as the wind was against and pretty strong. Luckily I went in peloton again - we were 6 of us and it worked out really fine. Came to a roadhouse already at 12 and put my tent on a nice flat lawn partly in shade. I deliberately did not take a cabin!
 Spent a couple of hours at the rather big and refreshing swimming pool, did my laundry and showered. Rider's meeting at 5 and dinner just after.
 Tomorrow we leave Northern Territories to go to South Australia - but there will not be a big change in our daily rides until we reach the ocean in another couple of weeks..
 Out in the bush tomorrow again..

No riding for 3 days..

Once in Australia experience - 3 restdays in a row.. But still not much sleeping in.. We left for Uluru (Ayer's Rock) at 5.40 the day before yesterday and had a 5-6 hours drive to get to the quite spectacular rocks in the center of this country. First the so-called toothbrush - with a salt lake opposite - then the Uluru ending with the Olgas. It's all unique geological phenomenas created before anything else we know of - older that any mountains of our knowledge.. It's about some material staying back when the rest just disappeared - eroded away over a period of thousands of millions of years.. No matter how old and exactly how - we are talking some uniquely beautiful formations - especially mesmerizing at the crack of dawn and at sunset. We saw Uluru (which is the aboriginal name of the place that has long been called Ayer's rock) at sunset. Turned into a touristic performance with several tour groups (us inclusive) standing with sparkling wine in their glasses and snacking cheese from a table dressed in white tablecloth. It is not the presentation that any from our group favor - but interesting to be an ordinary tourist just for a couple of days.. And the museum connected to Uluru WAS good to see especially because it tells a lot about the aboriginals way of thinking and believing.. Spent the night in a 4- person dormitory with some girls from the group at a very uncharming artificially created hotel village next to there. And stood up already at 3.30 the day after to go to Kings Canyon to do a 2 1/2 hours hike . Fantastic nature experienced hiking  is much more me! That was just fascinating!
 Came back to Alice end of day yesterday and quite a lot from the group went to "Montes", one of the most popular dinner an go out places here in town to "celebrate" Jodi from Alaska's last evening. That was nice: god vibrations in the group and nice food.
 Today I had a long list of to-does and am now ready for bush camping with at new comfy mattress, larger pillow, a sunhat, a mesh against flies etc.. Had a great lunch down town and chilled for some time before I went back to my cabin to get everything prepared for a 5 days riding bloc of long hot and maybe windy days and primitive life out there..

A hell of a headwind

Today we went 133 k's from Aileron Roadhouse to The Winter Sun Cabin and Caravan Park in the outskirts of Alice Springs. Again I am installed in the most wonderful little caravan cabin with all amenities to wish for. Invited "guests" for dinner tonight: Kirsten (a danish doctor living in Sweden) who has only been with us for 2 weeks is leaving and as I really like her we have arranged a little get-together in front of my place.
 The riding was super tough today. Hardest day in Australia - so far. There was a hell of a headwind all morning - to an extent that I got a little headache from it. Happy to be in a peloton - it makes the troublesome riding so much easier. We do it so that everybody (6 in all) lead for 3 k's which means that we cover 18 k's when everybody has taken their turn - a super way to go when riding is boring and conditions not the best. I was really exhausted at the 75 k's lunch stop - but the peloton group made me continue - and the riding actually got easier with the wind going down and changing direction. And after reaching the highest point of Stewart Highway we had a long descent down to Alice Springs.. More than ready for 3 rest days - going to Uluru tomorrow and having a day here before we continue south towards Adelaide. We have done approx. 1600 k's in Australia and are half way to Adelaide. And I am still IFI (Australia)!

Good racing to a "very interesting" campground..

The race was fun. I was camping during the night - and now know for sure that my mattress do not hold air! Well, although the quality of sleep was not the best my spirit for competing did not go down. I was around number 7 to start out of 19 competitors - and really  did my best to be fast all the way.  Was 9 coming in and 12 when it comes to time - happy about that! Was completely exhausted at the lunch just after - we came in before 9 pm after 50 k's of racing - my time was 2.12 something - I think.. That means an average time a fraction higher than the one I gave in.. Went slow afterwards but still arrived before noon to a joke of a campground. Barrow Creak seems to already have gone bankrupt - all bathrooms except two like ruins: smashed mirrors and "capsized" toilets. Old trash all over the place - and a "new" building never finished.. A character of a bar tender + multi tasking person in charge of everything - that explains that absolutely everything there was filthy and nonfunctioning.. Ending with no water the following morning - good that TDA at least supply us with water for hand wash..

From left: Eric (France), Dara (Englan/USA), Mary (Canada), myself, Ursula+Ray (Canada) and John (Canada) behind the  quite peculiar but typical bar - the only place that worked kind of properly at Barrow Creak.

Did my 2nd consecutive day of tenting - and had my first night with a decent sleep at an unshady, sandy campground - had to inflate my mattress in the middle of the night - and started out with legs and arms all itching from the bites of invisible insects.. But had my little fan running and did some reading before I went to sleep - the moon shining full in my tent (just the mesh up - no fly needed) - and later a wonderful night sky full of stars - the most precious wonders of tenting!
 Today we had another 150 k's day - all fine..  Tomorrow we arrive at Alice Springs for a 3 days rest - and will go to Uluru (Ayer's rock) the early morning after for a 2 days trip organized by Ursula, one of the tour participants. Tomorrow we are halfway (approx. 1500 km) between Darwin and Adelaide..

Enjoying a rainy day..

The unexpected happened - I woke up in the night hearing rain and thunder - nice to be in my cosy cabin.. It was not a heavy rain - and the people in tents were not bothered by it.. But luckily it continued after we started cycling (already at 5. 50 am) - just a pleasant soft rain - and cloudy skies.. It was not cold - just like one of the better danish summer days - may be 20-24 degrees - which is very unusual in an area where temperatures reach up in the forties all the time.. So I easily could get a speed around 30 going out on my own.. Later there again came up a peloton - which always is a nice change - and efficient for keeping up speed.

Riding the peloton: Joe, Matthew, Jacqueline and Per..

Fyi..

After 106 k's we reached the so called "Devil's Marbles" - some sculptural big stones - quite beautiful..

Feel small at the "Devil's Marbles"

Rode 116 k's altogether and arrived at camp before noon - and put my tent up!! So giving tenting a try again.. I am all set

 with my fully inflated mattress covered by my soft lined sleeping bag - all fine - hopefully.. We are at a very nice road house at Wauchope - swimming pool, good music, food and cider - just perfect! Tomorrow we have the race.. I signed in with an average speed of 25,5 - if I end up doing that I will get a price: maybe a night in a room. Also by coming in first I of course will win - but even though we have the handicap system I do not expect to. I just participate to have fun. Unfortunately many people take this too serious - only 12 out of 38 entered the race - a shame.. 

A well deserved rest..

Did the 160 k's day ending our 5 days of 680 something's bloc today. And it was great! Started out with John and a tailwind. Both good for my speed. John is 69 and a super consistent and fast rider. When I follow him I tend to speed up - good for my average - which beat it's record with 30. After lunch I first wanted to go a little slower on my own but ended up in a peloton with Shirly, Dan, John and Jody - also very good!

A crest..

Came in at Tennant Creek around 1pm and "moved into" the nice little "gypsy" wagon that I already reserved in August before going away (when I still thought that I only should take rooms on rest days).. There's a swimming pool just next to it - not bad.. Many people from the group wanted rooms but had to go to the hotel at the other side of the road as our campground only have limited accommodation.  Unfortunately there is no wifi there so now I am at Paul, Paul + David's room at the hotel doing my internet stuff. We will go for dinner shortly at the "Tennant Creek Memorial Club". Should be the best place in town to eat. And as we have a rest day tomorrow we are in the mood for good food - and surprise, surprise - some Australian wine - not bad!

Now it's Saturday. Had a nice dinner and quite some wine last night - it was Halloween and it was packed at "the club". Woke up at 6 (long sleep in!). Did some washing and got stuff sorted out from my permanent bag. Inflated my thermo rest fully - first used my little pump and finished blowing as much air into it as I could by mouth - will check if it holds the air shortly when I come back.. After Alice Springs we have 4 days of bush camping - so there will be no cabins to rent. So I MUST organize my camping!
 Just came back from a huge breakfast at a local greek restaurant - feel stuffed - nice! Tennant Creek is a very strange 3000 inhabitants place. Again in the middle of nowhere - empty streets on a Saturday morning - except for a few white and aboriginal people. All houses are one story - it reminds me of an american movie going on in the far west.. Wonder if/why people choose to live here!?
 Just counted the left riding days on my TDA sheet - 36 more of them. That means we have done nearly 2/3 of our trip.. Have done EFI in Australia so far - 1000 k's altogether..  Very happy about that!
 Paul from England came up with the idea that we should make a handicap race one of the coming days - to make a little change in our pretty monotonous riding. Everybody shall give in their normal average day speed and start according to that. Slowest first - fastest last. That might be fun..

Everyday in Australia..

We are here for 2 months - so there is an everyday - although we are on holiday.. Up at 4.30, on the bike at 6 - in camp between 10 pm and 2 am - that  has been our everyday rhythm for the last 4 days since our rest day in Kathrine.. After 93 to 169 k's of riding we have been at typical outback camps: good bars with beer and food, hot, dry campgrounds, peacocks, cooling swimming pools and excellent dinners by our TDA chef Jon.
 I have (temporarily) given up on the camping: too uncomfortable and hot - I need my sleep to cope with my cycling - that's it! Take cabins that are clean, have fridge, AC and wc+shower.
 The cycling has been good: often did the peloton in the morning reaching good speed (up to an average of 26 k's per hour). Generally I speed down a bit after lunch where it gets hotter and I am not so fresh anymore.. But an overall good feeling to bike at the Stewart Highway. The road trains pull to the right and have not been annoying us so far. Although the landscape is generally flat there are some crests that give a panoramic view of what's in front of us - and give us the chance to go faster (there are small climbs also - of course). The trees are turning into bush - the desert is approaching. We see large birds and kangaroos (most of them already killed in traffic). Have done EFI (every fucking inch) here in Australia - so far. My health is good and my mood as well - now I perform as I planned on doing..
 After tomorrow there is a rest day in Tennant Creek - then 4 more riding days - and we arrive in Alice Springs with 3 consecutive rest days. Nearly everybody has planned a tour to see Ayer's Rock - Ursula has organized it for us all - that's great!

Riding the Stuart Highway..

My blog is very intuitive and personal - and I often forget to tell about more general things. But finally a rest day with good internet connection - and time..
 So here a little update on also not so personal things..

Kathrine

We are at Katherine, 332 k's south of Darwin, at sleepy 10.000 inhabitants town "in the middle of nowhere". The Stewart Highway, that we follow all the way down to Alice Springs goes thru here. There are a lot of aboriginals hanging around on the street corners - they look very wild with big eyes set apart, curly hair and a very dark skin. Apparently they generally made some good arrangement with the government so they got most of their original land back - and make money on this thru tourism and mining..

Larger group 

 In Darwin our group more than doubled it's size - we are now around 40 riders. I reckon that the average age did not go down - it must be around 60. There are quite some people in their late 60ies - and not counting Nelli, Henry's 18 years old niece, Jody who turned 40 the day before yesterday is the "baby" of the crowd. Age does not mean that people are not strong and committed!
 Of course the riders that have done the 2 months in Indonesia have adjusted to the heat and have built up extra strength - I also feel that myself.. I can cope with long hot days - and I think that I am getting faster on the bike. But I keep on dreaming of a lighter bike - I know that mine is among the most heavy ones - and it irritates me a bit..
 There ended up being a bit over 5.000 k's in Indonesia - I did the 3656 of them.. Only two, Brett and Chris did the whole thing = EFI (every fucking inch)..
 Since Darwin there are quite a few known faces from The Bamboo Road last year: Ursula and Rae from Swarmish, Vancouver, Paul from Ottawa, Matthew from England, Nola from Toronto. It's good to see them all again..

Riding the Stuart Highway

Here in Australia the riding is very much the same every day. We start already at 6-6.15 having given in our bags at the luggage truck at 5.30 and starting breakfast at 5.45. There the temperature is still pleasant - and we see the sun rising - mostly as a big red ball coming up and turning yellow - beautiful. Then it slowly gets hotter - I typically drink 11/2 liters of water before our "lunch" stop - often already between 9 and 10 after 60-75 k's of riding. The quality of our food has gone tremendously up since we arrived in Australia - and the sandwiches we have for lunch are delicious. To be hungry is a permanent condition - so no problem with an early lunch - we just take another after arrival at camp between 11.15 am and 1.15 pm in my case. The quickest riders will already be in at 10-11.30. The distances in Australia so far have been between 90 and 130 k's. Our next bloc of riding days will be of 5 - with several days over 150 k's - I wonder how that will go..
 Roads are fine with rough tar.  A bit boring just going straight - but do not miss the hills - yet.. There are quite a lot of road trains  - huge long vehicles with up to four sections behind. Traffic is fast generally. There mostly is a little shoulder - we are told to go out in the rough if two road trains are passing each other beside us - not a bad idea.. We still have trees to the sides of the roads - but not before long we will be in the desert with absolutely no shade around. It gets extremely hot from around ten in the morning. And a strong, hot headwind rises regularly. I bring an umbrella for the worst case situation that I get a flat or am forced to stop for another reason - and 3 1/2 liter of water when I leave camp. There is water at lunch - and energy drink, which I finally started taking.

Camping

Only did it once - so far.. Had a very bad sleep. I inflated my thermorest maddress too little and felt like I was "falling off" most of the time. The ground also was uneven. And my little fan could not make the extreme heat go away. Not very restful! Was more awake than asleep. Realized that it is gonna be a costly affair to get some decent sleep on this trip considering the accommodation costing 70-150 aus. dollars a day. So I give the camping another try tomorrow - but might end up not doing it so much - giving my sleep higher priority than money..

I love Australia..

Back to civilisation - and the internet is totally unreliable - and expensive.. So bought access - but just for short.. Can tell that Australia is wonderful.. Spent 2 great days in Darwin - shopping, getting groomed - and last but not least: EATING! And finally my belly problems are over - isn't it incredible - had problems for at least 75% of the time in Indonesia. Will probably never go back there - except for Bali - I really love that island. Not to say that I did not love the rest - but just too many problems..

 We are now at our second campsite - did the first camping after a 108 k's ride yesterday. A beautiful camp with a  chilling swimming pool and fantastic surroundings. Small kangaroos (wallabies), a peacock and a 5 meter crocodile in the river just next to camp.

We were told not to go there - ok, we did not.. Tried our own cook, Jon's first meal yesterday - VERY good - more than promising. And the breakfast with porridge,  müsli and fresh fruits was just as I want it. The camping I will hopefully learn to love - so far I can put my tent up and down without any problems. Bought a little lamp for the ceiling - and an electric fan - just fine. But still sweating and lying uncomfortably on my little inflatable madras - really have to adjust..

Took a little cabin for tonight - my bag was full of ants when I unpacked it - so nice to have a room and a bathroom. Also for charging my electrical devices.. Did a 130 k's ride today ending up quite hot and with a pretty strong headwind - which fortunately cooled down a bit. Started the day with a 60 k's detour away from the Stewart Highway. Nice rolling hills - and untouched nature - beautiful! Gerald saw a dingo family.. 

Riding Timor Leste

Still back problems.. Did/could not carry my bag from the room to the van in the morning - but could sit on the bike - hurrah! Enjoyed the last little hilly part of West Timor and after 20 k we came to the border and crossed it without any problems - again somebody helped me taking the bags thru security check - happy about that!
 Timor Leste is like the rest of the island - just poorer - and more expensive (currency: us dollar). And something that I might not have mentioned: the islands tend to get less and less densely populated the further to the east we get. Now we have longer stretches without any people - something non-existing in Sumatra and Java..
The road we rode on is getting built - with most parts still under construction, somme parts just with fine gravel or sand/earth and a few parts already done with new tarmac. Wonder if it is ever gonna get finished? Anyway at times we went thru a dust hell - going up and down along the most beautiful hilly northern coastline, waugh! Arrived at the lunch stop just by the beach - happy about a good day riding with just 70 k. Did stand in the surf for quite a while - the ocean was refreshing - and I ended up lying in the sand - listening to the waves coming in - very relaxing.. Everybody seemed quite stressed just upon arrival at the hotel: having the bikes high pressure washed and packed into the cartoon boxes that had been brought all the way from Medan. The full ride yesterday was an approx. 130 k's hard one - so reason to be a bit tired for the people that accomplished it.. Anyway we were a whole group going to a quite nice restaurant built out over the surf coming in to the beach - had great sashimi.. Fish is fresh as ever here. We have 3 riders leaving us - also a little farewell party for them. Sterling is the only one that has done the full trip. He will go back to Cairnes, Australia. Ruth is going back to Victoria, Vancouver and Darrel to Sydney. They only did Ubud to Timor Leste.
 So today is Australia day - bike and bags packed - just checking out of the room - more than ready to get back to civilization..

Wish for a big kangaroo jump down under..

Indonesia was not meant to be easy for me.
Now I have the second day with a painful back - did ride yesterday - but had problems just stepping off the bike.. Maybe a bit too ignoring the day before where I might have provoked it to worsen.. Anyway no riding today where I took the van to our last hotel in West Timor.
 Just did rider's meeting where all details about border crossing to Timor Leste were discussed. We arrive at the border after 20 k's ride and will do another 90 k after. Hopefully all will go smoothly - we already prepared the paperwork. I plan to ride until midday - I prefer to sit on the bike in stead of in the van - and hopefully I feel better when I wake up tomorrow.. In Dili (the capital of Timor Leste) we have to wash (the aussie authorities do not accept any dirt from abroad) and pack our bikes, repack our luggage minimizing overweight costs ready to leave for Darwin on Monday.. I would not mind being there already..
 Anyway tomorrow awaits us another first (and probably last) time experience: the little young country of Timor Este - one of the world's poorest nations - but just for 24 hours..

Getting nostalgic about this beautiful country and it's people..

Today we had a 108 k 1500 m something climb ride. Time to make stops not only for the cokes - but for the people, landscapes and beauty of this fantastic place.. West Timor holds a lot of what we already saw along our long route through Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok, Subawa and Flores - and something quite different and special for this place. Out in the country the people seem more "tribal".. that means that they live in thatched huts and have a more "primitive" appearance.. The women look as if they wear a bright red lipstick - but it is just because the chew the ? root. But again, super friendly - and today I felt really well on my bike so I just gave them all the big smile and wave with my arm - which as always pays back hundredfolds. Hallo, good morning, good afternoon, goodbye - I like to get this shout or response from them all.. It really makes me happy!
 Came to the town of Soe after 1.30 pm - hungry as I cannot get down the white bread for lunch anymore. But went to my room to shower, wash and do my stretching - have a small issue with my back since I did a wrong movement yesterday - but I know that my back is strong and it will only get better by being used.. Now I sit at a little restaurant next to the reception - had a noodle soup, a beer (big Bintang) and some banana chips - all good.. Tomorrow we only have a 85 k's ride - will stop even more and enjoy the moment of still being here in Timor - but just for short..

Timor - last island before Australia..

Our plane just after landing in Kupang, West Timor

Yesterday we flew from Ende, Flores to Kupang, West Timor. One hours flight with a local airline not generally recognized in our part of the world - but all fine (the plane was nearly brand new)..
 Just landing here this place seemed a bit different from the last many islands - more dry and less hot - a pleasant change. And - guess what - more flat.. But time will show if this is true in the days to come.. The university town of Kupang is the largest (300.000 inhabitants) of West Timor. Our hotel is a very run down faded glory kind of place - and we almost all decided to listen to Gerald (he left Ende one day earlier than the rest of us and made a little research about this place) and go for the new "Bottles and Barrels" restaurant last night. That turned out to be a good idea. Up scale kind of Bali style place with great food, drinks and least but not last some good live music. I think we were around 10 of us dancing like mad for quite some time - ending with 4 of the guys jumping in the pool. Enough of beer, wine and drinks to make everybody very relaxed and happy.. A good change in our everyday rhythm.. - thank you Gerald.. The next party is already planned for Darwin, Australia where we start celebrating Jodie's 40 years birthday a couple of days before it actually is.. And of course the reunion with many known faces from the Bamboo Road last year that will join us there.
 Well it is not all partying.. We still have 4 riding days here at our last island. Actually we leave Indonesia to go to Timor Leste before. This is the youngest nation of the world grounded in 2002 after many years of political conflicts between the two ends of the island of Timor. The splitting up of this place originates from the colonial period where the Portuguese were in the east and the Dutch in the west. Our local guide here, a great woman called Yayan, told me that she is still very connected to the east thru family and friends and goes over there regularly..
 Next Monday on the 20th of October we fly the short distance from Dili, East Timor to Australia's most northern town of Darwin. I think even the most mountain fanatic riders are looking forward to this. Personally I can't wait to get normal food on a daily basis (the rumor goes that the TDA cook who is going to make our food at camp is a real chef - no complaints about that..). And although I generally see myself more like a climber and fan of challenging surfaces I can't wait to ride the flat roads that are awaiting us down under. BUT this is a TDA trip so there will be a new thing to cope with: tenting (which will be a first time experience for me).. And apparently many bugs, insect, snakes and crocodiles.. NEVER A DULL MOMENT!

More challenges on the beautiful island of Flores..

Another bit of our trip absolved - some challenging rides on the island of Flores. After our rest day at the western tourist departure point of Labuanbajo the BIG climb had to do without me.. Did around half - and lost motivation for the afternoon's hot climb. It seemed to go on forever - at least seeing it from the bus.. Stayed at the town of Ruteng - and decided to upgrade from our pretty basic youth hostile kind of place. Wrong decision: logistics to solve, cold shower and not much better than the pretty charming alpine hut style place where the group was staying..
 Was kind of unsatisfied with my lack of accomplishment the day before at decided that the 130 something k's 2200 m's climb distance to Bajawa SHOULD  be done! And I did it.. Letting my coke obsession go to unknown heights with 1 in the morning, 2 before the climb and 2 more after reaching goal. Not to mention the 2 Sprites and 1 energy gel. Well it seemed to help - I rode all the way. In the afternoon Brett paced down and went together with Jodi and me for nearly the whole climb - a good motivation also.. AND one of our drivers came back to us with big bottles COLD water midway of the long gentle climb. Enough for full body shower!

WATER! (Andreas, Brett and Jodie)

I was cold when I arrived and was desperate for food but there was NO food around - somebody just left for take away burgers - no more orders could be given in. Lost my temper a bit in front of Cristiano, our tour leader.  We are talking 4000+ deficit of calories - and I am SO fed up with the lunch white bread that I just snack on fruits, nuts and cookies. Luckily Gerald had ordered 5 burgers or something - so luckily I had one of them + french fries. Can you imagine me on a diet of burger+coke - yes, that is reality!! 
 Well, I also would like to tell you about the beautiful island of Flores. Mountains high - river deep - a special island that holds the dry landscape from Lombok and Sumbawa - but also the green rice terraces of Bali. And SO many big bamboo trees. They are just amazing with a quite special sound to them when the wind goes thru the top. And I just love the mountains here: they are often like a child's drawing and we even saw one where the volcano was smoking. Our route has been the generally  well asphalted Trans Flores Highway going inland most of the time. 80% of the islanders here are catholics and they were in their best clothes going to church yesterday, Sunday. It has another feel to it when the beautiful women are not wearing ji habs but smart short dresses with their often curly hair coiffed in a nice style  - not to forget the singing from the churches..

Yesterday we had our last 122 k riding day on this island going to Ende that lies at the middle of the south coast. Starting up high we had a lot of descent: 2270 going down compared to 1220 going up.. A nice morning ending up at the coast which we followed for the last stretch.

Now at the best hotel (does not say much) of town just opposite the airport from where we leave for West Timor tomorrow afternoon. It was first planned that we should have a 14 hours ferry ride to Kupang there but the ferry does not exist anymore so most of our luggage and bikes left on an open truck with Henry to go for a ferry leaving from the east of the Flores today.

Amalfi coast go home - Flores here we come..

Things change. As well as my attitude to a day's ride. The LONG day (192 k) started fine for me - my legs strong and good energy to keep the speed up also when climbing. Started out with Ruth, who struggled with the heat and decided to pace down. After lunch I was alone (many riders decided not to do the afternoon or just started after lunch) - still with ok energy. And going along the most beautiful coastal road (Amalfi coast go home!) gave me more.

Fisher mens village on stilts..

The stunning northern coastline of Sumbawa..

 I was seriously considering to do the full day.. Was at the back of the group and when the lunch truck passed Henry jumped out to join me.. Still felt fine - but all of a sudden the heat started to struck me - and I decided to stop at the refresh stop at 140 - still not warn out - but not having Eva to push me I took the easiest option.. And went for a swim - in my biking clothes.. That was NICE! But no more riding..

 After another day with "just" 108 k - including some 1100 m gentle climb - we had our last stop in Sumbawa at the town of Sape by the eastern coast just next to the ferry terminal to go to Flores.
 8 hours was a hell of a long time on the ferryboat.

Loading..

But starting out waiting 2 hours at the dock to load some overloaded (too high) trucks and having a sail of 6 hours couldn't make it any different.. It is a terrible mess on board the ferries here.. Locals lie all over the floors and just throw their trash around them. We went in the VIP salon - not much better - but at least some chairs. It ended up getting smelly there and I escaped to the deck where it was nice to sit in shade and enjoy the view of the ocean.

View of the Komodo island from the deck..

We saw dolphins twice and passed pretty close by  the island of Komodo where the famous dragons live. Did not see any and decided not to use my rest day today to go there. In stead I had a WONDERFUL lunch at the number one italian restaurant here at Labuanbajo where we arrived just short before sunset yesterday.  All good - except for the rumors of a 3200 m climb tomorrow - oh, Australia - look so much forward to visit your flat and straight route going down from Darwin to Alice Springs!!

!! This blog is old news - had no internet access for a long time - so stay tuned for some later updates tomorrow!!

Lombok - not all LOL

Early morning ride to the ferry today (east coast of Lombok)..

As Henry (the owner of Tours d'Afrique) puts it: I am always happy in the morning and when I come in after a day's riding - there might be some moments in between where my mood is slightly different! How right he is - happy to ride along beautiful coast lines in the early morning - pleased to reach the goal after a day on the bike. What's in between is often somewhat of a nightmare. Here in Lombok the heat has been the big problem. Yesterday the Garmin registered a max. of 46 degrees - and something similar today - that's no fun! But again - the coke stops save me. Today it included a full body shower of water from my bottle + 2 ice creams: one to eat (pop-up) and another just to cool down my head front and neck (did not unpack it).. And a coke - of course..

The lady shopowner brings me the coke = moment of pleasure..  I think I leaned how it is to be an addict!

Well - there actually was some fun in Lombok: went out with Gerald and quite a bunch of the other "boys" from the group to the best (and it really was good) restaurant in Sengiggi. They had done the full tourist night route the evening before and as usual Joachim had recorded it all on his video. Inclusive Gerald's totally over the top dancing - had LOL just watching this - and listening to Sterling tell about the evening - happy not to participate (they partied until 3 am)..
 We started out a new bloc of 5 riding days yesterday: 126, 109 - 192!!! tomorrow then 128 ending up with only 4 kilometers followed by a long ferry ride. Did the first two - including an 1 hour ferry ride today. Again - great mornings - after 10.30 it gets hot like hell and survival is on the agenda - and fortunately I tend to feel fine when I am in at the hotel! Yesterday I went swimming in the ocean for the first time on the whole trip. Stepping out through the corals is not easy - but the water was wonderful - I floated for a while letting the salty water decide the direction - very nice.. But tough to get in again over the corals.. Unfortunately the water at the Sengiggi resort was totally polluted - just full of trash - ugly!

Approching Sumbawa - before the day got really hot..

 The ferryboat took us to the island of Sumbawa today. This place is even less touristy than Lombok - but our hotel here is really nice. It seems as if these islands have had a really hard time building up tourism since the Bali bombings in 2002. Many places are kind of new as the business is just newly really started again.
 Back to riding: the longest day of the whole trip is tomorrow.. It will probably be impossible for me to accomplish it within daylight time.. Just the riding will take around 10 hours with an average of 20 (which I am not sure to keep with 1400 m climbing). Then comes lunch and a bunch of coke stops.. No I do not believe in it - although I acted at if I am doing it - we were asked not to ride until after lunch if we do not  think that we are able to finish the day. I HATE the riding after lunch!

Change of scene - change of people. And solid change of health!

Goodbye wonderful Bali - a place that I definitely would like to come back to! An easy day on the bike: leaving Ubud going east 35 k's to catch the ferryboat to Lombok 4 hours boat ride from there.. Apart from the early morning traffic in the city piece of cake going more or less straight all the way. Got late out of the hotel and ended up going with one of the new riders that entered the group in Ubud: Ruth from Vancouver/England.. Finally a female rider that matches my speed - may be a mate for riding days to come.. Would appreciate that after doing most of the riding alone so far. And at one of the traffic lights going out thru Ubud there was another new rider: Jodie from Anchorage that actually also was kind of our speed - may be a team? Well not that it is not fine to go alone - but after a while it sometimes gets a bit boring - and when there are many directions to follow (which there has been most of the time) it is nice that you are not alone to find your way.. I am kind of middle of the group when it comes to speed but maybe a little bit further up when it comes to climbing and going on difficult surfaces. So when you are not committed to ride with somebody particular it does not work to stay together..

On the ferryboat going from Bali to Lombok. New girls in the group from left: Ruth, Jodie and Jacqueline from South Africa/Sweden. 

Arrived at Lombok early afternoon. Surprisingly different from Bali. More dry vegetation wise, more like Sumatra and Java when it comes to the locals where again nearly everybody is saying hallo and smiling at you.. Not that Bali is not friendly - but just much more touristy.. The population here is primarily muslim again - the flash showing in which direction to pray is getting shown at the hotel room ceiling.
 Lombok and the islands further east belong to another continent - having same origin as Australia the  vegetation and bird and animal life here is much more like the latter and different from the western part of Indonesia - Brett just told me.. The change follows the Bali strait that we traversed yesterday.. After another distance like the morning we reached our destination of the day Senggigi. Apparently the biggest tourist resort of Lombok. Again at a decent beach resort hotel for our rest day today.

Sunset view from our Lombok hotel..

Our riding seems to get more gentle (for a while?). Not as much climbing and not as many days riding after each other.. And quite some days with shorter distances. Hopefully I will not get bored with my newly recaptured good health.
 Yes - I am 100% again - and that's just wonderful!

Blessed to be back on my bike in Bali..

Went for Balinese dancing - very captivating..

What a blessing - back on the bike.. After 2 weeks in the world of "normal" tourists it's like coming back home - where I belong.
 Before I left Ubud Monday morning Nellie and I went for Balinese dancing. And I ventured into the "Eat, Prey, Love"- world for at little while. Went for "Early morning flow" at the Yoga Barn here and had an ayurvedic massage afterwards. Ended up at their vegetarian restaurant - where everybody seems to include everybody. Sat next to two Australian ladies - both divorced within the last year..  The one did the class I also did and went straight on to the Sunday morning dance after breakfast - she did not do any ordinary sightseeing or anything - was happy just to be part of the Yoga Barn community..

Ganesh supervising our yoga class..

 Well, you might think I am the same - just with cycling.. The fact is that being back in the group and going from Lovina up north back to Ubud on my bike made me very happy! We had a 97 k's 1700 m something climb's trip - not too steep going up through this beautiful island..

Nice to be back in the group.. Breakfast at our beautiful Lovina  location..

I realized my total dependance on coke - but just when I ride. Had 3 coke stops - and a little visit to a danish owned gallery and hotel that I just happened to pass by shortly before ending the day..

View from our riding on the ridge of a huge volcano crater..

Some of the Balinese rice paddies became World Heritage Sight - not difficult to understand..

After approx. 90 k's ride time for snack at the danish owned galleri/hotel that I just passed by by chance..